Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca nagyon csalódott volt ebben a 2009-es kóstolóban, arra hivatkozva, hogy a borászok nem tudták kezelni az évjárat nehézségét, ennek az egyik oknak a 'gyászos' bemutatásra.
'Néhány 2009-es év igazolta az optimizmust a hosszú élettartamukkal kapcsolatban, és a legtöbb gyártó 2009-t a rövid távú ivás évjárataként említette'
A 2009 - es évjárat Barolo durva igazságokkal és durva borokkal fog szembesíteni a fogyasztókat. Több mint 200 példát kóstoltam a Barolo 2009-ről az albai Nebbiolo Primában májusban. A rendezvény öt napján kínált borok többségének nemcsak a klasszikus Nebbiolo szín hiányzott, de szinte nem volt Nebbiolo aromája és íze sem.
Szeretem Barolót, és sok producert tisztelek és csodálok elkötelezettségük és látásuk egyértelműsége miatt. Mégis azt kell mondanom, hogy ebben az évjáratban sokuk teljesítménye nem egyszerűen hiányzott, hanem gyalázatos.
Természetesen voltak kivételek: több producer - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto egyesek számára - meglehetősen iható Barolónak bizonyult. Néhányan - nevezetesen Pio Cesare és Massolino-Vigna Rionda - még bíznak boruk öregedési potenciáljában. Ezt a véleményt gyakran visszhangozták a kereskedők és a vásárlók, akik egy héttel korábban, mint az újságírók, és a gyártókkal együtt (nem vakon) kóstolták meg ezeket a borokat. Ízlésem szerint - és sok újságíró véleményével, akikkel beszéltem - a legtöbb Barolo-készítő úgy tűnik, hogy súlyosan alábecsülte ennek az évjáratnak a nehézségeit. Kevés a 2009-es év igazolta az optimizmust hosszú élettartamukkal kapcsolatban, és a legtöbb gyártó 2009-ről a rövid távú ivás évjáratának beszélt.
Giacomo Conterno, a Monforte község Aldo Conterno borászatából az egyik szókimondóbb termelő volt. Azt mondta: „2009 bortermelő évjárata volt. Augusztus végén néhány [Nebbiolo] szőlő már majdnem megérett, és néhány teljesen éretlen volt - csaknem 30 nap különbség volt közöttük. Amit tettél, meghatározta, hogy milyen bort készítettél. ”Az idei év szüretének általában derűs Consorzio-értékelése nagyon őrzött:
„A 2009-es évjáratra a szabálytalan érési mintázat miatt is emlékezni fognak ... A technológiai érlelés szempontjából az évjárat 2003 és 2007 között helyezhető el… ebben az évjáratban az eredményeket nem mindig javították az aratás késleltetése. '
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Írta: Tom Maresca
Érdekes Cikkek
