A tinajas néven ismert spanyol amforák átvették az Elisabetta Foradori trentinói borászatának barrikjait
- Fénypontok
- Hosszan olvasott borcikkek
- Magazin: 2018. májusi szám
Simon Woolf az olasz borospincék ellenforradalmáról szóló jelentéseket vizsgálja ...
Van egy rövid, de drámai pillanat Paolo Casalis 2014-es filmjében Barolo Boys: A forradalom története amikor Elio Altare borász láncfűrészt visz a családja pincéjében álló impozáns botti (hagyományos nagy tölgyfahordók) sorához.
Ezeknek a tiszteletre méltó edényeknek az 1983-ban meghozott rituális megsemmisítése gyakorlati célja volt - helyet teremtett az újonnan vásárolt, kisebb francia tölgybarikkok számára. De a hatásos szimbolika egyértelmű volt - az állítólag büdös, pusztuló botti a régi rendet képviselte. A tökéletes, újonnan együttműködő barrikok sorai egyértelmű üzenetet küldtek a modernségről és a stílusról.
Görgessen lefelé, hogy megnézze Woolf tölgy nélkül készült olasz borait
Ami 1983-ban élvonalbelinak tűnt, az 1990-es évek végére a rangos olasz pincészetek számára alkalmassá vált. De újabban a barrique döntő tölgyes simogatása kiesett a szívességből, az északkeleti Friulitól a déli Szicíliáig és az összes pontig.
Az olasz borászok egyre inkább áttérnek az erjesztés és az öregedés alternatív anyagaira és edényeire, kezdve az árkánustól a teljesen kiforrottig.
Ahol valaha barrikok álltak, most amfora, grúz qvevris, betontojás vagy nagy akác hordó lehet. Ez csupán a divat futópadjának ciklikus őrlése, vagy a nagyobb hitelesség és kifejezés kifejezése felé irányuló határozottabb mozgalom része?
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Woolf kóstoló jegyzetei és a tölgy nélkül készült olasz borok válogatása:
Érdekes Cikkek
